I'll Recycle These--for the Locals

I am in need of many used frozen whipped topping containers with lids.  I'd like the 8 oz. (regular) size.  I will use them soon for starting perennials to plant out this fall.  I'll explain the process (at the risk of seeing my options disappear if you decide to do it yourself).  I learned this from James Taylor, my friend who is a retired horticulture professor.

After labeling, either with a waterproof address label and sun-proof, water-proof marker or a plain old pencil, fill the container a little over half full of commercial potting soil.  I use Stutzman's brand, which is the same as Sunshine brand elsewhere.  Tamp the soil down just a bit with your bent fingers.

If the seeds need a chilling treatment, leave the lid intact.  This will keep your seeds from drying out while they are being chilled.  Chilling times usually last for three weeks or more.

Plant your seeds according to the directions on the packet, or, if your supplier is one of those that doesn't include this, look up the germination requirements on the internet or in a reference book.  I  have several favorites:  From Seed to Bloom by Eileen Powell and Park's Success with Seed by Karen Park Jennings.  The latter was produced by one of the former owners of Park Seed.  The Park book is in full color, and the other is in black and white.  A favorite internet source in the form of a chart is located here.  What you will especially need to know now is whether the seeds can tolerate being covered.  If not, you will simply spread the seeds on the surface and press them gently into the potting soil.  If the seeds need chilling, this is the time to put on the lid and tuck the planted seeds into a back corner of your refrigerator.

If your seeds are pansies (an annual), the above process will probably also work, since the seeds must germinate in cool temperatures, and they cannot be covered and they must have darkness.  James germinates his in ice chests.  I'll have to ask him how he keeps the temperatures right inside the ice chest.  The refrigerator might be too cool.  I am currently chilling the following seeds:  Columbine, Lady's Mantle, and Sea Holly.  Most seeds do not need pre-chilling, but you are wise to take note of those that do.

If the seeds cannot tolerate transplanting (because they resent root disturbance), you will need to place expanded Jiffy 7s into the Cool Whip-like container.  You will likely get 6-8 pots into one frozen whipped topping container.  These are marshmallow-shaped peat moss "balls" inside a netting.  All of the pot can be planted in the soil outdoors when the plant is ready.The peat moss "balls" come dry and compressed into a cookie shape.  They are expanded by adding water.  When they are fully expanded, the seeds are placed on the top of the expanded peat.  If the seeds need covering, I usually use milled sphagnum moss.  This has anti-fungal properties--a help in preventing damp-off, a disease that is the nemesis of seedlings.  The milled sphagnum moss comes from Stutzmans or from Amazon.  Chamomile tea is a natural remedy for damp-off, if it starts in spite of your preventive measures.

Seeds that don't need pre-chilling go into frozen whipped topping containers with a different kind of lid.  You will begin with the lid that originally came with the container.  Stab a pointed knife through the lid somewhere in the middle.  Then insert a sturdy scissors into the slit and start cutting out a circle in the center of the lid.  Leave only a rim on the top of the lid--perhaps just under 1/2 inch wide.  After the planting is done, stretch clear plastic wrap over the top of the container and snap the rim onto the container to hold the plastic taut.  Stab a few slits into the plastic and put the container somewhere where the temperature is in the right range for sprouting.  Most seeds sprout OK at room temperature.  Keep careful watch to see that the seeds and potting soil don't dry out.  If you  need to water, remove the lid carefully and use a turkey baster to dribble a little water around the inside edge of the container.  Replace the lid, and allow the moisture to distribute itself by wicking naturally throughout the potting soil.

Give the seedlings as much light as possible as soon as germination has taken place.  The plastic can probably be left in place for a bit while some of the slower seeds germinate, but the container can never be left in direct sun while the plastic is in place.  The seedlings will cook if you do that.  A likely location during the summer months is under florescent lights inside the house.  Place the containers only a few inches below the light fixture.  Watch carefully and water when necessary, but don't over-water.

The usual rule for knowing when to transplant seedlings is to wait till they have one or more sets of true leaves.  The seedling leaves, which will appear first, look different from the true leaves, which are smaller versions of the form on a mature plant.  The Park book has pictures of the plants in their seedling-leaf stage.  When ready for transplanting, prick out the seedlings and settle them neatly into  individual pots or compartmented plastic plant packs.  Let them grow there till they're big enough to plant in the garden.

In our plant hardiness zone (6b), fall planting of perennials is ideal.  To get the plants to garden size at the right time, it's necessary to start them in the first month following the solstice (the first day of summer).

Now, back to the original purpose of this post, if you're local, and you have no plans to use those frozen whipped topping containers you've accumulated, I'm your go-to disposal source.  Thank you very much.